WE FOR ALL MOTORCYCLE BRANDS AND SPECIALISE IN BMW AND DUCATI.
GREAT BIKES MADE BETTER
Are you after:
- A smoother throttle response and greatly improved horse power from your machine?
- Faster up and down gear changes from your quick-shifter?
- Less bottom end lag?
Tuning is an art-form. It takes years to develop the methods we use. We service all motorbikes but we specialise in brands such as BMW and Ducati. We use the most modern equipment to gain the best power and reliability from your bike by taking advantage of the de-tuning that manufacturers add in on these bikes when they come out of the showroom. Best of all, this is all achievable with the bonus of being totally undetectable by the dealer’s/manufacturer’s diagnostic tools! YES! Our tuning is stealthy to the dealer! The areas of the ECU we load our tunes to are not visible on the manufacturer’s software.
AN EXAMPLE OF A BMW S1000RR DYNO POWER RUN
WHEN TUNING WE CAN MODIFY THE FOLLOWING AREAS OF THE MAP:
IN SHORT, FROM HILLTOPS HEAD SOFTWARE DEVELOPER:
It’s invisible to everyone other than us and Hilltop Motorcycles. The tune cannot be erased or found by the manufacturer’s or insurance companies. It self learns and continuously improves and adapts the fueling so that the bike always performs at its best. All in all it’s well worth the money and transforms your bike.
HILLTOP MOTORCYCLE "REMAP" FAQ'S
First thing to know is we don’t touch the Manufacturer’s software or tune at all. We write our own software and load it on to the ECU Chip Set memory area. The software then makes use of files within the Manufacturer’s software for things like: traction control (although we can overwrite that), ABS, and Immobiliser etc. We put our software on the ECU in part of the memory that the bike dealers /manufacturer doesn’t have access to (they don’t make their own ECUs) and then the new tune runs the engine, variously modifying, blocking or allowing other functions of the stock software. Therefore, by not touching any area of the software that the Dealer or manufacturer can see, your warranty is safe. To give an example of a true story, the software has been looked for by scrutineers for years and they have never found it. Kawasaki Engineers (Kawasaki themselves) have had our reprogrammed ECUs in for investigation and they could not find it. They came up blank.
We write engine management software. This is actually not the same thing as “remapping” which is hacking of the original manufacturer software. Our software goes onto the ECU and integrates with (but does not disturb) the original software at the Chip level. We allow some functions of the original software to continue undisturbed (e.g. ABS braking management, immobiliser, traction control etc.) however, we take over some functions (typically we modify fueling and ignition timing). Our way of doing things has considerable advantages:
- It means we will not break an ECU by corrupting the original software.
- It means our work is invisible to the manufacturer and their dealers so customer warranty isn’t affected.
- It means our work cannot be overwritten if the customer goes into their dealer and the dealer applies a software update.
- The original manufacturer software varies in quality – some manufacturers write good software and some do not. By writing our own software we can get much better results than by hacking bad manufacturer software.
Given how lean most modern bikes run (for low emissions) your engine life should actually increase with the reprogramming. The little bit of extra fuel we put in helps to soak up heat inside the engine and carry it away via the exhaust, where it belongs. This action reduces wear. For retail customer’s bikes (as opposed to race bikes) we don’t go anywhere near the limit of what we could do so we are not ‘over stressing’ your engine.
No. For the same reasons as above, the software update written by the dealer will only affect their software. You will only lose your “remap” if the dealer exchanges your ECU for a new one.
Because the tuning software is hidden from view, the Dealer will not find the modification hence they have no reason to void warranty. Your warranty is safe.
Yes. The increase is felt immediately and is felt right across the rev range. On your very first ride out of the shop you will notice an increase of power and a smoother more responsive throttle. Gear changes are also crisper and smoother.
This depends on a number of interacting factors that combined affect the final result; IE changes made from the standard specification (exhaust, air filter etc), how well the original factory program works on your particular bike (you’d be amazed at the differences in the torque and power curves of two supposedly identical stock bikes), how good the original factory software is in the first place (some is awful, some is actually pretty good), and so on. We won’t know the numbers without actually running your bike on our dyno, however it’s safe to say that you will obtain a significant increase.
The tuning method used in this process allows for adaptions in large, through the air box sensor(s) which, generally in bikes, are not strictly airflow sensors but temperature and pressure sensors. If you change the air filter or exhaust, and by doing so change the way air flows through the engine, then this also affects the way air behaves in the air box. It’s these changes that our system uses to adjust the fuel maps, taking on board obvious changes like engine temperature, throttle position etc. and this is where we gain the power.
No. You will need to remove or bypass any aftermarket unit before we work on the ECU as this will conflict.
Because we don’t work like anybody else. We are software developers, they are remappers. They mess with the standard factory maps where we write our own software.
Yes. We can send out to you the remote tuning kit so that we can remotely connect to your bike through the diagnostic port and upload the necessary tune based on any hardware mods you may have fitted. There is an extra $200 charge for this. This helps cover the loan tool and the extra time it takes to finish off the tuning. You are responsible for the return of the kit via Express Freight Service with Tracking No and insurance.
CHECK OUT THIS YOUTUBE VIDEO FOR MORE INFORMATION
NOT CLOSE ENOUGH TO BRING IN YOUR BIKE? NO MATTER
With the nature of self-learning ECUs, our tunes and of modern motorcycles themselves, we can achieve the same results when an ECU is posted in to us as we can when a customer brings in the whole motorbike. The post-in bench tuning option offers a convenient alternative if you’re not located close by to make a visit a practical proposition. The only downside is that you won’t get your before and after optional dyno graph to show off. You will however, feel the power increase via your ‘bum dyno’.
IF YOU WISH TO FORWARD YOUR FACTORY ENGINE ECU TO US PLEASE FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS BELOW CAREFULLY:
SEND YOUR ECU
REINSTALL YOUR ECU AFTER REMAP
Include with the ECU full details of the bike and your details:
Year, Make, Model, Engine capacity and HP, Your name, address and phone No.
- Please use a tracked postal service to minimise the risk of loss. Ensure that your ‘Sender’ address is clearly displayed on the package. Also put your address inside the package. If you are required to complete customs information you must put that the package contains parts for repair and return to sender and write $199.00 import value, or we will be charged customs duties & taxes & we will need to pass those costs on to you.
- We always endeavour to get your ECU re-tuned and back in the post as soon as possible.
- Payment by Direct Deposit or PayPal, although we can take payment by debit card.
- The price will be $800 plus express postage back to you.
- Step 1: It is imperative that the battery is disconnected from the motorcycle.
- Step 2: Reconnect the ECU.
- Step 3: With the keys in the ignition (or placed right next to the ignition switch for keyless ride models) but not turned on, reconnect the battery
- Step 4: Hold the throttle to the 100% wide open position and do not let go.
- Step 5: With the throttle still held fully open, turn on the ignition (but don’t start the engine) and allow all checks to complete (approx 60 seconds).
- Step 6: Turn off the ignition.
- Step 7: Close the throttle.
- Step 8: With the throttle fully closed, turn on the ignition (but don’t start the engine) and allow all checks to complete (approx 60 seconds).
- Step 9: Turn off the ignition.
- Step 10: Without touching the throttle start the engine and allow it to idle for a minimum of 3 minutes.
- Step 11: Test ride the bike being careful of the new power rating of the bike. Happy motoring!